Tuesday, January 29, 2008

Insulation self audit

Heat gained through the ceiling and walls in your home could be very large if the insulation levels are less than the recommended minimum. When your house was built, the builder likely installed the minimum amount of insulation required at that time. Given today's energy prices (and future prices that will probably be higher), the minimum insulation level is almost certainly inadequate, especially if you have an older home. Current recommendations are R49 in the attic, R18 in the walls and R25 under the floor/crawlspace. The common R-value measurement is fundamentally flawed, but in absence of a better comparison unit, we still use it.
If the attic hatch is located above a conditioned space, check to see if it is at least as heavily insulated as the attic, is weather stripped, and closes tightly. My attic has 4 different access doors through knee walls. None of them sealed tightly when I moved in. Once in the attic, determine whether openings for items such as pipes, ducts, and chimneys are sealed. Seal any gaps with an expanding foam caulk or some other permanent sealant. While you are inspecting the attic, check to see if there is a vapor barrier under the attic insulation. The vapor barrier might be tar paper, Kraft paper attached to fiberglass batts, or a plastic sheet. If there does not appear to be a vapor barrier, you might consider painting the interior ceilings with vapor barrier paint. This reduces the amount of water vapor that can pass through the ceiling. Large amounts of moisture can reduce the effectiveness of most insulation and promote structural damage. While on this note, if your attic has vents such as a ridge vent or soffit vents then it is intended to breathe. It is also intended to stay as dry as possible. This is a challenge on warm rainy days when you are running your air conditioner. The coolness of air conditioned space reaching the 100% humidity of a rainy day will create condensation (water drips). Condensation should be avoided in your attic. To do this, assure all things which are typically colder than outside air are insulated; AC ducts, water pipes, walls of air conditioned spaces.
Make sure that the attic vents are not blocked by insulation. You also should seal any electrical boxes in the ceiling with flexible caulk (from the living room side or attic side) and cover the entire attic floor with at least the current recommended amount of insulation. In our area that is
Checking a wall's insulation level is more difficult. Select an exterior wall and turn off the circuit breaker or unscrew the fuse for any outlets in the wall. Be sure to test the outlets to make certain that they are not "hot." Check the outlet by plugging in a functioning lamp or portable radio. Once you are sure your outlets are not getting any electricity, remove the cover plate from one of the outlets and gently probe into the wall with a thin, long stick or screwdriver. If you encounter a slight resistance, you have some insulation there. You could also make a small hole in a closet, behind a couch, or in some other unobtrusive place to see what, if anything, the wall cavity is filled with. Ideally, the wall cavity should be totally filled with some form of insulation material. Unfortunately, this method cannot tell you if the entire wall is insulated, or if the insulation has settled.

Saturday, January 26, 2008

Introductory Post

There is a stereotype that those of us who are fortunate enough to live and work near the relatively fuel-rich Gulf of Mexico are not concerned with conserving energy.
Oh contraire.
Increasing energy efficiency and reducing waste is my passion! I believe that the lack of regionally useful information is an impediment to many southerners’ conservation efforts. Though there is a great deal of good information on conservation and waste reduction, it is mostly geared toward the higher populated areas of the country, specifically the east and west coasts.
It is my hope to share with you what I have learned over the last few years to assist you in your efforts to reduce your own energy consumption.
In general, we in the south are most often concerned with keeping heat and humidity out of our homes.
Here is a prioritized list I compiled to help you to take action immediately:

Today
Turn down the temperature of your water heater to the warm setting (120°F). You'll not only save energy, you'll avoid scalding yourself or someone else.
Start using energy-saving settings on refrigerators, dishwashers, washing machines, and clothes dryers if you have them. If your appliances don’t even have energy saving settings, it is probably time to upgrade.
Survey your incandescent lights for opportunities to replace them with compact fluorescents (CFLs). These lamps can save three-quarters of the electricity used by incandescents. The best targets are 60-100W bulbs used several hours a day. New CFLs come in many sizes and styles to fit in most standard fixtures. In some applications, LED bulbs are even better though harder to find. Here is some quick math for you about light bulbs: an incandescent bulb which draws 100 W of power only creates ~15 W of light. The remaining 85 W is heat (think easy-bake oven). That means every 100 W bulb in your house is an 85 W heater. In the summer, you have to use Air Conditioning to remove that extra heat. You therefore have paid for the same power repeatedly. Once as waste heat when it was light you desired, then again to remove that just purchased waste heat. CFLs create a lot less heat. LEDs create even less than CFLs. If you live in the South, waste heat IN the house is just bad.
Check the age and condition of your major appliances, especially the Air Conditioner and refrigerator. Air conditioners, refrigerators, and freezers all have coils of pipe or tubing which they use to transfer heat to the air. These must be kept clean to work well. They may be underneath or on the back of your refrigerator. Clean them gently with a vacuum. If your appliance is more than 5 years old, you may want to replace it with a more energy-efficient model even before it dies. Keeping the old fridge as a beer fridge may seem like a plus but it is not. You will end up spending less money if you buy a new one for the recreation area. The point of the upgrade is to get rid of an energy waster, not to double refrigeration capacity.
Clean or replace furnace, air-conditioner, and heat-pump filters. I use the re-usable ones from the local Ace Hardware. Disposable seems wasteful.
If you have one of those silent guzzlers, a waterbed, make your bed today. The covers will insulate it, and save up to one-third of the energy it uses.
This Week
Visit the hardware store. Buy low-flow showerheads, faucet aerators, and compact fluorescent light bulbs, as needed. These can be purchased from any hardware or home improvement store. CFLs are now sold at some drug stores and grocery stores as well as hardware stores.
If your water heater is old enough that its insulation is fiberglass instead of foam, it clearly will benefit from a water heater blanket from the local hardware or home supplies store. (To tell the difference, check at the pilot light access (gas). For electric water heaters, the best access is probably at the thermostat, but be sure to turn off the power before checking.)
Weather strip and or caulk leaky windows. (More on this later)
Assess your heating and cooling systems. Determine if replacements are justified, or whether you should retrofit them to make them work more efficiently to provide the same comfort (or better) for less energy. I will have some more information on retrofitting to increase efficiency of AC condensers.
This Month
Collect your utility bills. Separate electricity and fuel bills. Target the biggest bill for energy conservation remedies.
Crawl into your attic or crawlspace and inspect for insulation. Is there any? How much?
Insulate hot water pipes and ducts wherever they run through unheated areas.
Seal up the largest air leaks in your house—the ones that whistle on windy days, or feel drafty in the winter. The worst culprits are often not windows and doors, but utility cut-throughs for pipes ("plumbing penetrations"), gaps around chimneys and recessed lights in insulated ceilings, and unfinished spaces behind cupboards and closets. A bunch of small, invisible cracks and holes may add up to as much as an open window or door!
Use an ENERGY STAR programmable thermostat that will automatically adjust the thermostat based on your time-of-day instructions. These cost less than $100 and will likely pay back in the first year of use.
Try to schedule an energy audit for more expert advice on your home as a whole, or learn how to conduct your own by visiting the Home Energy Saver Web site. A directory of available energy audit services by state is available at RESNET. I personally have had no response from any of these guys here in Louisiana. I hope your luck is better. In case you are on your own, I will cover later many things you can do yourself.
This Year
Insulate. This is the best way to reduce your home energy and improve your comfort. I will write a lot more about this.
Consider an upgrade for leaky windows. It may be time to replace them with energy-efficient models or to boost their efficiency with weather stripping and storm windows. This is just as important as insulation. There is little value in having R-45 protection overhead if the heat and cold can blow through window and door leaks.
Have your heating and cooling systems tuned up in the fall and spring, respectively. Duct sealing can also improve the energy efficiency and overall performance of your system (warm-air furnace and central air conditioners).